The Dolomites are a large, complex area of limestone mountains situated in the north-east of Italy. These mountains are generally lower than the more popularly known central Alpine regions with the Marmolada at 3343mts being the highest summit. Vertical rock walls rising out of green meadows are the norm. Glaciers are small and confined to the highest northern facing mountains so rarely is the climber faced with snow or ice to negotiate on the routes that access the numerous rock climbing towers which are the main attraction of this area. The weather is generally more stable in this region although late afternoon thunder storms are always an ever present threat. What the peaks lack in altitude they make up for in continuous steepness and what they lose scenically in the lack of large snow/glacier fields they make for in the abundance of mountain rock climbing faces, which provide one of the best collections of rock climbing routes in Europe. All the mountain groups in the area have excellent paths, frequent mountain huts and fantastic via ferrate thus enabling the scrambler to penetrate deep into the environment once the sole preserve of the experienced rock climber. There are numerous via ferrate, protected cableway and ladder mountain routes, of all grades providing many exciting challenges. Many of the original via ferrate (iron way) were installed by the specially trained Alpini troops during the 1stWW to enable efficient troop movement through the high mountains, establish elaborate tunnel systems and to fix gun positions to dominate the high ground overlooking the valleys. The whole area is well connected with good roads and many uplift systems giving easy access to the climbing areas.

This was the reason the Dolomites were chosen for this year’s annual CCAT Introduction to Alpine Mountaineering (IAM) course. As a central location we were based in the Marmolada campsite in Canzei. Canzei is well blessed with all the essential facilities required, 2 supermarkets, tourist information with a weather forecast in English plus climbing shops for the hire of via ferrata equipment, guidebooks and maps.

Ten Army Cadet Force students were selected for the IAM course made up of 5 x CFAVs (male and female) and 5 x Senior cadets (male and female). Due to the climbing ratios 6 x highly qualified and experienced leaders were employed to deliver the training.

The cheapest option was to drive from Capel Curig via the Dover Ferry which, with stops, was an accumulation of 26 hours each way. This left us with 7-days of training.

Day one was a training day at a one-pitch climbing venue in Sella to test check that the students’ had the essential rock climbing skills to progress on to the more challenging aspects of long multi-pitch climbing routes. We experienced our first thunder storm that evening, however the following day dawned glorious so we hired the necessary equipment and opted for one of the more challenging Via Ferrata the 1500mts Della Trincee ridge route on the opposite side of the valley to the Marmolada. This would lead us up to a height of 2750mts so it would be good for acclimatisation. As the photographs show this route was continuously interesting and testing. The following 4-days we selected various classic multi-pitch rock climbs on some of the best of the limestone towers - Cinque Torre was our most favourite of the areas. By the end of the 6-days we had amassed a total of 5155mts of rock climbing by the whole team. We had a very impressive tally of routes to our credit:

Torre Grande – Della Guides 120mts Grade IV
Torre Lucy – N Face 135mts Grade IV
Torre Romana – S Chimney Grade III
Torre Quarta Bassa S Face – S Face 110mts Grade IV
Torre Quarta Alta – 100mts Grade IV
Torre Inglaise SE Face – 50mts Grade IV
Torre Baranchio N Face – 120mts Grade IV+
Sella Tower Steger Route – 250mts Grade IV+
Sella Towers Kostner Route – 185mts Grade III+
Sella Towers Via Normal – 250mts Grade II
Torre Piccalo Guides Route – 240mts Grade IV+
Torre Piccalo Scoiattoli Route – 310mts Grade IV+
Torre Grande Lussato Route – 220mts Grade IV
Torre Grande W Ridge – 220mts Grade III

As the photographs illustrate these were very steep challenging rock climbs that also required complex multiple abseils as well as negotiating steep mountain terrain to return back to the base of the climbs. The leaders did a magnificent job and more importantly the students rose to the task displaying confidence in their ability and applying their skills to a high degree of competence. It is likely that this is the first time anyone from the Cadets organisation has scaled a Dolomite rock tower. The experience had exceeded all their expectations and they are to be congratulated on their significant achievements.

We topped off the expedition with a team dinner in one of the local restaurants when we presented the coveted CCAT IAM course certificate and told stories of our exploits.